http://vimeo.com/55400613   Creative Garden Christmas Holiday Special...  Episode 8 Part 1

http://vimeo.com/55400901   Creative GArdens Christmas Holiday Special... Episode 8 Part 2

Our Holiday special, in 2 parts is a new approach to our gardening programming with instructional and our Creative Gardens kitchen theme with co host, Mary LeBlanc. This episode, Turkey dinner prepared in a brown paper bag... The dinner was delicious, you can take my work for it.

Well, it's here folks.. The all new Creative Gardens and Episode 7 and the Alfalfa Farms tour.. Click the Vimeo links here and take the tour with us as we meet with Rich and Trudi at the farm and taste their delightful libations. http://vimeo.com/54032424

Here's some fun stuff from Mary's Kitchen of Creative Gardens with Chet Stentiford & Mary LeBlanc

Compliments of Mary's Kitchen of Creative Gardens .. This is what we enjoyed on our program yesterday.. Oh yeah folks :) Now should we really be letting these secrets out of the recipe box Mary? LOL
French Apple Pie

French Apple pie:
any pie crust you make or choose but no top needed
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch of salt
says 6 cups paired, thinly sliced apples but I always do more like 8 cups so 6-10 apples.
prepare unbaked crust leaving enough over edges to flute and hold topping in place..... and preheat oven to 350'
mix together the dry ingredients and toss with the apples, stir them till well covered and pour into pie plate or dish. Don't worry about mounding the apples, they will shrink down.
Topping:
Toss 1 cup flour with one stick firm butter, cut into small pieces. Add 1/2 cup compressed brown sugar and mix till crumbly. I end up gently using my fingers to get it to the crumbly stage.
Pile the topping on the apples and flute the crust up to hold things in place.
350' preheated oven
Bake 1 hour and then cover with foil and bake another 30 minutes
I always put a pizza pan, cookie sheet or whatever, lined with foil under the pie, it always spills over a bit and hate cleaning that burnt surgery stuff off the oven floor.
PS Whenever I make Apple pies...I save the skins, put them in some water with cloves and cinnamom and simmer it all together on the stove.....smells up the house so nice and you can keep doing it for days.......I have a warming burner so just keep it going all of the time, just adding water every now and then.
With Hugs and Love........:-) Mary

 

Frosted Cranberry Salad

I can bear witness to how goooood this one is. I had three helpings of this tasty dish

Frosted Cranberry Salad.......big winner, more like a treat than a side to turkey......the guys loved this one and it's easily one of my favorites......way better than just the jellied ole' cranberry sauce I grew up on.
2 boxes of Cherry or Raspberry jello, any brand
1 16 oz can crushed pineapple, drain and keep the juice
1 16 oz can whole berry cranberry sauce
1/2 cup chopped nuts, I always use more :-)
Topping:
8 oz. cream cheese
4 oz. sour cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla

dissolve jello in 2 cups boiling water add pineapple juice and chill till just getting thickened........add pineapple, nuts and cranberry sauce and mix together....pour into whatever you like and chill till firm.
Whip topping ingredients together, chill and frost whenever you like.
I normally do 2 different dishes one with and one without topping, both great :-)

From our family to yours. Creative Gardens wishes you and yours a wonderful and peaceful Thanksgiving. Enjoy the day with family and friends in the true spirit of giving thanks for all that we have in peace.

  Coming this week on Creative Gardens a special program at Alfalfa Farm in Topsfield, Massachusetts. A local vineyard and winery carrying on the tradition of wine making in the grandest style.

Here it is folks.. The latest episode of Creative Gardens with The Saugonian Gardener.. Episode # 6.. Rocorded on location at Mary LeBlanc's floral Shop in revere, Ma.

http://vimeo.com/51698208

Greetings from Creative Gardens with The Saugonian Gardener... Today, October 18, 2012, Episode 6 aired on SCTS Channel 8 herein Saugus, Ma. A link will be forth coming for public viewing shortly... we're in touch, so you be in touch....

Here's a link to a great compost tea mixture..Just think, "It's ORGANIC and simple to make...Enjoy and Happy Gardening..Don't forget the fall preparations. Time is getting closer. Fertilize, seed. turn the compost pile, adding lime to speed break down process.

http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/brewing-compost-tea.aspx

View the final and concluding episode of the Saugus Iron Works perennial and herb garden tour.

http://vimeo.com/49330009

Join us for an evening for family and children. Bring your own pumpkin. Be sure to open the top and clean out the seeds well before coming.. Email sctvgarden@comcast.net for reservations and information.
Be sure to check out the links on my company web site http://www.hortservices.net

Filming at "The Flower Shop" in Revere with our co host Mary LeBlanc begins tomorrow morning. We'll be looking forward to seeing Mary in all her glory as she walks us through a number of simple floral arrangements you can easily do with store bought cut flowers. Also, be watching for our program ad soon to be released on Channel 8 in SCTS herein Saugus, Massachusetts.

 

 

"An Evening With The Saugonian Gardener"
Here's our open forum seminar held at the Saugus Public Library on August 29th
http://vimeo.com/49026255

During our open forum seminar, discussion was brought to the floor regarding issues pertaining to proper tomato culture and care. In further research of the issue, I came across the following link pertaining to various problems with good and healthy tomato pants and fruiting.

http://www.agrisupportonline.com/Articles/cracking_in_tomatoes.htm

The information herein should offer suggestions to a good and healthy tomato harvest with fewer problems in their culture.

In reference to insect holes in basal plants. My feeling is that various worms are the culprit doing damage during the night hours as they are nocturnal and are not visible during the daylight hours.
From further research, I found the following example of basal and insect damage brought on during the night hours. Note: This example is only a possibility as there are numerous insects that can devastate basal plants in the garden.

 For further information, please forward inquiries to our email address at sctvgarden@comcast.net

Any and all questions and viewing of our program as well as information may be viewed on our web sites at http://www.hortservices.net  and http://www.saltmarshflowers.com

Thank you for viewing Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener for at www.saugustv.org

Thank you for viewing... chet stentiford & Mary LeBlanc

Greetings once again to Creative Gardens with the Saugonian Gardener... The following is an article posted in the Lynn, Ma. daily Evening Item on August 30th in the Saugus community section, so I thought I'd share it with you. The interview was a bit different than what was later published, so I'd like to add that my co host, Mary LeBlanc is a huge contributor to our show and unfortunately she didn't receive the notoriety as I had hoped and dictated to the interviewer. So..Here' to you Mary, without ya, the show wouldn't be as successful as it is. Thank you..
"An Evening With The Saugonian Gardener, Wednesday, August 29th at the Saugus Public Library.

Creative gardens program at Saugus Public Library Originally Published on Thursday, August 30, 2012 By Matt Tempesta / The Daily Item SAUGUS — A local gardener and Saugus Community Television Station host brought his horticultural show to the public Wednesday night at an open gardening forum at the Saugus Public Library.

Chet Stentiford, who hosts “Creative Gardens with the Saugonian Gardner” on Channel 8, gave demonstrations on floral arrangements as well as tips on lawn and garden care.

“This is the first one,” said Stentiford. “It’s an opportunity for people to ask questions pertaining to their lawn and garden problems, and an opportunity for us to get some feedback on our program.”

Stentiford hosts “Creative Gardens” with fellow gardener Mary LeBlanc. The two started the show in the spring.

“For years and years I’ve kind of looked for my niche in the horticultural field and I discovered it was more in the framework of teaching and presenting,” said Stentiford. “So I decided to create a program on public access …”

Since starting the show, Stentiford said he’s actually had people recognize him and stop him on the street.

“People would mention the show, but we were getting very little feedback,” said Stentiford. “I mentioned to my co-host that we have to find a way to get some feedback people as to what they would change about the show or how we could make it more usable for them.”

That’s when Stentiford said he came up with the idea for Wednesday’s forum.

“I thought by putting together an open forum, people could bring in samples of lawn areas that are infested with insects, or question us about problems with their garden or suggestions to make the program more entertaining,” said Stentiford.

Stentiford has owned his own business, Horticultural Service, for 30 years and has won numerous flower show awards, and recently wrote his first e-book called “The Hidden Gardens of Marblehead,” which is available on barnesandnoble.com.

“Basically I did a tour of seven gardens in Marblehead, one of them including Jeremiah Lee Mansion,” said Stentiford. “It took about three months to put together and edit and compile it as a finished manuscript. It’s designed for the Nook and Kindle.”

Stentiford said his show is designed for the “novice gardener,” but can also be enjoyed by more experienced gardeners.

Since its first airing, Stentiford has done five shows, including one at St. John’s Episcopal Church, a two-part consultation episode at a local home and another two-part show at the Saugus Iron Works, which is currently airing.

“I think this one might be the best one we’ve done,” said Stentiford. “We met with the woman who is the site horticulturist and the person who maintains the gardens at the Iron Works. We discussed the authenticity of the 17th century and how it pertains to the gardens there, and she gave us the history of the creation of the garden.”

Stentiford said he’s looking to do another show in mid-September along with Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s specials.

For more information on Chet Stentiford’s business visit hortservices.net or Mary LeBlanc @ saltmarshflowers.com.

Composting Made Easy
By Chet Stentiford
Expert Author Chet Stentiford
I have often times been approached by gardeners with questions regarding proper composting and equipment needed to do the job properly.
Many people have begun their composting efforts by purchasing one of the many expensive composting bins available at local hardware stores,
nurseries, or other retail outlets. I would not disregard these bins as they do what they claim to do. The barrel type that can be turned with an
easy crank by hand to keep the rotting compost moving and breaking down, and other bin types are also used with good results, however,
I find the amount of compost as an end result is limited and actually almost not worth the effort as enough compost to support many gardeners
needs can not be produced by these compost bins (my opinion).
To provide enough compost for average to large vegetable gardens or perennial beds, I find that a home made compost bin, actually three
inked together, is essential and does a far better job of providing enough compost for the experienced and novice gardener. Keep in mind that
a single compost bin is not enough to continually provide the vital ingredients needed to keep soil fluffy and workable each season.
As you deplete the available compost from a single bin, you are left with nothing for next season, until you rebuild a new supply which will take
a year to properly rot and become good workable compost. My feelings on composting is that good compost is the building block to providing
good balanced workable soil, as the organic matter in soil, if left unattended, depletes each season due to micro organisms diligently
working to break down the organic matter in the soil thus requiring replenishing with more organic matter to keep the organic content constantly available.
There are countless homemade composting bins one can construct from ordinary scrap lumber, which I feel are an excellent alternative to ones you
purchase at garden centers or hardware stores, and are easy to construct by anyone handy with wood construction, and actually with a little ingenuity,
anyone can construct one, or in this case three, of these bins at far less expense. I hope this info helps those who are attempting to add composting to
your seasonal gardening projects each year, and remember, soil is not constant, and it is ever changing right before your eyes. What is there today
will NOT be there next season, so keep adding good compost and your veggies will grow like weeds, and your flowers will grow dramatically
better because of your efforts.One last note not included previously. The purpose of three bins is that in putting together a good compost program,
you need to have three compost bins active at all times. The first if for this years building, while the second bin is compost in the actually rotting stage,
and the third is the bin from which you are removing compost this season for your gardening needs, thus this give you a continual supply of compost
every season. It becomes a build, rot, and use cyclical program for yearly use. As far as composting material, additives, such as lime, manure,
kitchen scraps, garden debris and brush refuse; the following information I have included is a perfect compost recipe for backyard projects.
Follow these recommendations and the results will contribute greatly to all your gardening needs. Put your grass clippings to good use and conserve
our diminishing landfill space.
Where to Start...Find a level, well-drained, and out-of-the-way spot in your yard. The area you will need will vary depending on the size of your
household and the size of your yard or garden. Most compost piles are three to four feet in diameter and get to be about four or five feet high.
Plan on three feet across and three feet high to start. a functional bin. A sunny place is better than a shady one, but composting works
fine in the shade. You might want to make some sort of boundary. A cheap and easy way to enclose the compost is to make a circle of chicken
wire or wire fencing held in place with wood or metal stakes.
The wire allows the needed oxygen to get to the compost so that the bacteria and fungi can work to turn waste into fertilizer and mulch.
( Actually I consider a wooden structure lined with chicken wire, to be far more sturdy and reliable and will last far longer) Ingredients. Compost
everything organic. If you have a supply of leaves with which to start, so much the better.
Leaf mold is an excellent conditioner for clay or sandy soils because it retains water. Add: grass clippings, branches, tree and shrub trimmings,
houseplant clippings, broccoli, leaves, apple cores, potato peelings, tomato stems, corn husks, grapefruit skins, coffee grounds, eggshells, grape stems,
watermelon rinds, broom sweepings from your floors, house dust, cat and dog fur, and sawdust. Almost anything organic will do, but avoid
meat scraps and fats because they decompose slowly, and will attract animals. Pine needles and wood scraps also decompose slowly and may be
too acidic for some soils.Mix..Mix roughly 3-to-1 volumes of carbonaceous, or "brown", material and nitrogenous, or "green", material.
In general, brown material feels more dry and woody, like dead leaves and dried grass. Green material is softer, mushier, or easily bruised,
like fresh grass clippings, most kitchen waste, or livestock manure (not domesticated pet litter or droppings). These items, with the addition
of water, oxygen, heat, and composting organisms (microscopic and macroscopic), will degrade and become compost. The nitrogen will assure
quick composting, while the carbon will balance the mixture to prevent it from rotting and giving off that ammonia smell..Let it Cook...Once you
have enough material, the pile will begin to "cook" - that is, it will heat up to the temperature that will begin the composting process. The e cooking
will destroy weed seeds and disease organisms that may be present and will break down the organic material. You will need to turn over the composting
material every now and then to add oxygen and keep the less decomposed materials at the edges blended with the more decomposed materials in the center.
If you turn the material over about every three days or so, it will be ready to use in about two months. You can correct the mixture if it is not working.
If your compost has no smell, it has too much carbon material. Just add more kitchen wastes or grass clippings to give it more nitrogen. If it is very dry,
add enough water to dampen it. If flies, fruit flies, wasps, or other insects are attracted to your compost, it is because you have not covered the kitchen
scraps with fruits or leaves.
Animals will not be a problem as long as you avoid throwing meat scraps or bones into your compost..
Serving Suggestions: Dig Right In!...You can never have too much compost. It is an ideal soil conditioner and organic enriched.
Use it to break down clay soils, improve water holding capacity of sandy soils, and add nutrients to your garden. Your plants  will thank you!
Other suggestions:
• Screen it and sprinkle it on your lawn. You can use compost to fill hollow spots or just to top dress.
• Mix it half and half with potting soil for houseplants.
• Compost serves as superb mulch on garden plants. Mulch helps to conserve moisture, reduce soil erosion, control weeds, and extend the growing season.

A standard compost recipe for backyard projects:

1. Start with a 6" - 8" layer of high-carbon wastes such as dead leaves, woody brush, and plant stalks.
2. Follow with a 2" layer of high-nitrogen material, such as grass clippings, manure, or vegetable scraps from the kitchen (but avoid meats, fats, and oils!).
3. Add a 1" layer of soil or sod.
4. Repeat the entire layering process, watering as you go, but do not saturate the pile!

Happy Gardening

Chet Stentiford

Here it is folks..What you've all been waiting for..The Saugus Iron Works garden tour..Visit with us as we step back into history and tour the perennial, herb and butterfly gardens of the oldest Iron Works in the America's.

http://vimeo.com/47738176http://vimeo.com/47738176

Greetings friends..Creative Gardens with the Saugonian Gardener presents the tour of the Saugus Iron Works Perennial, Herb and Butterfly gardens tonight, Sugust 17th at 7:30 pm on Channel 8 and is also available on www.saugustv.org for viewing.

Be sure to view new information and ideas on my company web site under the links page at http://www,hortservices.net 
and at www.saltmarshflowers.com

We're in tune with local gardening issues so you be in tune with Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener

Welcome to our blog site for Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener... I'm taking a moment to introduce myself as the co host of SCTS... I'm Mary LeBlanc of The Flower Shop in Revere, Ma. 012151...Soon coming to Creative Gardens will be an afternoon with Mary LeBlanc and an introduction to simple floral arrangements that anyone can do with flowers that are readily available anywhere. Be sure to tune us in on Channel 8 on your local access TV here in Saugus, and also available on Vimeo through our station web site @ www.saugustv.org .
Access to my web site is www.saltmarshflowers.com

 COMING THIS AUGUST 29TH
SAUGUS PUBLIC LIBRARY
COMMUNITY ROOM
SAUGUS,MASS.01906
INFO CONTACT : 781-520-9821
6:30-7:45

                                             DON'T MISS THIS OPPORTUNITY !!!

Chet Stentiford

Host of SCTV's Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener program
781-520-9821


Date of event: August 29,2012
Time: 6:30 - 7:45 PM
Subject: "An evening with the Saugonian Gardener"
(If possible) Pertaining to, in the month of August, 1-3 announcement insertions in the Lynn Item. We'd just like to keep this in front of the Saugus readers as much and as often as possible.
Location: The Community Room at the Saugus Public Library


Content:

"Come join us at the Saugus Public Library this coming August 29th at 6:30 pm - 7:45, for an evening set aside to meet the hosts, Chet Stentiford & Mary Leblanc of "Creative Gardens with The Saugonian Gardener."

Your new gardening series on SCTV Channel 8, week days and evenings.

Come prepared with all your questions pertaining to your lawn & garden issues.
IE: Restoration, Maintenance, Installation. Disease, Insect, and Weed control issues, Design Ideas, Bring photos, let us help with your gardening issues.

This is a great opportunity to share with us feed back and critique our show.
Help us to design the program around issues of your interest.

We designed this program to assist the community in solving issues that are problematic in your yard or garden.

So mark your calenders for the 29th of August and join us for an open forum on community gardening.

Refreshments will be hosted by the Saugus Garden Club

CAUTION: When renovating a lawn or eradicating weeds from a lawn
“IT  IS THE CONSUMERS RESPONSIBILITY TO READ THE
LABEL BEFORE PURCHASING ANY PESTICIDE
IE: weed control, insecticide,or fungicide. Make a mistake?
It’s not up to the manufacturer to rectify the problem nor can they  be
held liable for damages if any of the prescribed precautions are not
followed in strict compliance with the product label.
It is the manufacturers responsibility to clearly state results and
expectations and intended use of any  pesticide registered with the EPA
clearly on the label..In this case, the consumer didn’t do his homework
and relied upon the recommendation of those unqualified to suggest
such a product.. ALWAYS rely  upon a reputable and knowledgeable
garden center  staff when making a decision of this nature.,

http://bcove.me/azeq7fx5

Gardening in the 1600s here in Saugus at the Saugus Iron Works.

Step back into history with us on Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener.
Be watching for our show on the perennial, herbal and butterfly gardens at the Iron Works here in Saugus soon to be broadcast sometime in august.
Gardening has for year been a means of providing beauty as well as functional gardens for households throughout the centuries dating back to our founding days in the 1600s through current times.
Many of the plant material today was devised from earlier species known for their provision to culinary as well as medicinal qualities they provided to the local community.
Perennials have been hybridized over the years to add to their overall beauty and thus creating plants of greater beauty and quality, hardiness, and  adding to the perennial and herbal gardens in use today by local gardeners, bith seasoned and novice gardeners alike.
Such [lants as the Moss rose for instance is today a plant the has far fewer thorns and by far a more fragrant flower then it's earlier predecessor.
Our feeling in featuring this program was to provide the viewer an understanding of where the plantsof today came from so many years ago.
though gardens years ago were designed for their functional use, many use the garden today to provide much the same function. This program is designed with an interest just for you our faithful viewers in hopes you too will gain and interest and appreciation of where our plants originated. Sit back and enjoy and as always, write in to our email at sctvgarden@comcast.net with your questions and we are always here to help you understand the uniqueness of gardening of today as well as that of the earlier years. we hope you enjoy the program and find it helpful in selecting plants for your own garden. With this new insight to the numerous varieties available today that are derived from those of the early years even far earlier than the period they were introduced here in the United States.

Questions, See my links page at http://www.g\hortservices http://www.hortservices.net/page9.html

Here's a link to our current episode of Creative Gardens on Channel 8 here in Saugus, Ma. on SCTV

http://vimeo.com/44269759

Here's a link to our current episode of Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener....Watch and enjoy...Comments always welcome please. We'd enjoy your feedback.. Thank you.

http://vimeo.com/44269759

Greetings from Creative Gardens w/ The Saugonian Gardener

Today, episode 2 is now available on Channel 8 with SCTV, with episode 3 coming within the next couple weeks. 

With this episode we covered various email questions sent in from viewers. The following is an article made available from Ohio State university Extension Service regarding Birch Leaf Miner, and Birch Borer infestations.

The article is being posted for the sole purpose of information to aid in the eradication of Birch Leaf Miner in local Birch trees in home landscapes.

Descriptions of insect life cycle, damage and control are shown as means of control and prevention from damage from Leaf Miner infestations in Birch trees.

Follow up and further information is available to you free of charge on our program email address at sctvgarden@comcast.net and links to other sites can be found on my web site at http://www.hortservices.net

Drop us a line at our email address and let us know if the following article was helpful.

Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Entomology

1991 Kenny Road, Columbus, Ohio 43210-1090

---

Birch Leafminer

HYG-2035-91

David J. Shetlar
James A. Chatfield
The birch leafminer, Fenusa pusilla (Lepeletier), is a small sawfly native of Europe that was first detected in Connecticut in 1923. It has since spread throughout northeastern North America.
The larvae of the sawfly make blotch mines in the leaves of most birches (Betula). Severe damage may occur to paper birch (B. papyrifera), gray birch (B. populifolia), and European white birch (B. pendula). Black birch (B. lenta), yellow birch (B. alleghaniensis), river birch (B. nigra) and monarch birch (B. maximowicziana) are less susceptible.
The adult sawfly is a small, 1/4 inch long, black, fly-like wasp. The larva is very flat, lives within birch leaves and is white with three black spots on the lower surface.

Type of Damage

Damage to birch trees is done by the larval stage as it feeds between the upper and lower layers of the leaves. This feeding produces large blotch mines in the leaves. Often, several larvae will completely mine a single leaf. Multiple generations and high populations can cause damage to almost every leaf by mid-summer. The mines turn brown and will cause the tree to look dead with wilted brown leaves. This forces the tree to refoliate and reduces its ability to produce food for growth. This damage may also make the trees more susceptible to bronze birch borer attack. Though the adult birch leafminers are related to wasps, they do not have a sting.

Figure 1. Birch leaf damage. Early mines on left and late mines on right.

Life Cycle and Habits

Mature larvae overwinter in the soil under host trees. When the soil warms in the spring these prepupae pupate, usually in April, to transform into the adult stage. Within a few weeks the adult sawflies dig out from their earthen cells and fly to the newly expanding foliage of birches. The small black adults prefer to mate and oviposit on the upper leaves, especially in sunny areas. Mated females use their needle-like ovipositor to punch a hole in the leaf and lay eggs. Often the female withdraws the ovipositor without laying an egg. The damaged spot may turn brown as the leaf expands and hardens. The eggs are often visible in the tissues between the major leaf veins. They may appear as small raised spots on the leaf surface. Within 7 to 10 days the eggs hatch into tiny flattened larvae with wide front segments. These larvae produce a blotch mine that may join with others. The old mines may contain considerable amounts of dark fecal pellets. The larvae mature in 14 to 20 days and are about 1/4 inch long. By this time the larva have the diagnostic small black square marks on their lower surface. Mature larvae cut a hole in the leaf epidermis and drop to the ground. Here they dig one to two inches into the soil to form a pupation chamber. Birch leafminers usually produce two to three generations a summer.

Figure 2. Adult Birch Leafminer (X5)

Figure 3. Birch Leafminer Larva. Underside View (X5)

Control Strategies

Birch leafminers prefer sunny areas but will attack susceptible trees almost anywhere. Birches tolerate leafminers best when they are planted in shady, cool, moist areas. Since birch leafminer attacks may weaken the trees, making them more susceptible to borer attack, good fertility and horticultural care are needed. When chemical controls are needed, control of the first generation will generally eliminate any need for additional applications.
Option 1: Cultural Control - Pupation Barrier Since the larvae must find soil for pupation, place a black plastic or tightly woven fiber mulch under the tree drip line. Lightly mulch with organic material so that drying can occur rapidly.
Option 2: Cultural Control - Resistant Birches Unfortunately, the birches with the finest white bark seem to be more susceptible to the birch leafminer. The river birch (B. nigra) and Dahurian birch (B. davurica) have bark with curly flakes and seem to be resistant to bronze birch borers as well as the leafminers. Other birches resistant to leafminer attack are Schmidt birch (B. schmidtii), Monarch birch (B. maximowicziana), black birch (B. lenta) and yellow birch (B. alleghaniensis).
Option 3: Chemical Control - Insecticides for Adult Control Several insecticides have activity that kill adults. Although the first generation adults are active when the new leaves are about half expanded, emergence may take place over several days. In Ohio, birch trees are usually attacked by the first generation of leafminers during the first two weeks of May. Contact insecticides may need to be re-applied every 5 to 10 days depending on their residual activity. Systemic insecticides may not need re-application if their residual activity period is more than 14 days. Pesticides that act against the leafmining larvae are generally more effective. Contact and stomach insecticides registered include: bifenthrin (Talstar)(*), carbaryl (Sevin), chlorpyrifos (Dursban), diazinon, fenitrothion (Pestroy)(*), malathion, permethrin (Pounce)(*), phosmet (Imidan)(*) and lindane.
Option 4: Chemical Control - Systemic Insecticides for Larval Control Systemic insecticides, especially easily translocated materials, can be applied to the foliage, by soil injection or injected into the tree. Stem or trunk injection is not recommended on a regular basis because of the tissue damage caused by the hole drilling. Attempt to control the first generation of larvae when the mines or eggs are first apparent. Systemic insecticides registered for control are: acephate (Orthene), dimethoate (Cygon)(*), disulfoton (Di-syston)(*), oxydemeton-methyl (Metasystox-R)(soil injection only)(*).
* Restricted Use Pesticide
Option 5: Chemical Control - Timed Sprays Using Degree-Days (DD) or Plant Phenology Using a base of 50 degrees F, the first generation of larvae should be susceptible to control between 190-290 DD. This is the time that Vanhoutte spiraea and horsechestnut are beginning to bloom.

---

This publication contains pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registration, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author, The Ohio State University and the Ohio Cooperative Extension Service assume no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.

The following is information regarding Burch Borer...

With this episode we covered various email questions sent in from viewers. The following is an article made available from Ohio State university Extension Service regarding Birch Leaf Miner, and Birch Borer infestations.

The article is being posted for the sole purpose of information to aid in the eradication of Birch Leaf Miner and borer infestations in local Birch trees in home landscapes.

Descriptions of insect life cycle, damage and control are shown as means of control and prevention from damage from Leaf Miner infestations in Birch trees.

Follow up and further information is available to you free of charge on our program email address at sctvgarden@comcast.net and links to other sites can be found on my web site at http://www.hortservices.net

---

 

---

 

Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Entomology

1991 Kenny Road, Columbus, Ohio 43210

Bronze Birch Borer Management

HYG-2018-95

David J. Shetlar


The bronze birch borer, Agrilus anxius Gory, is a small slender beetle that is slightly less than 1/2-inch in length. Its larva is one of the most devastating pests of white-barked birches in Ohio. The larval stage feeds just under the bark of birch trees. When this larval feeding girdles a branch or tree, the result is sudden wilting and death.
This native North American insects occurs on birch from Newfoundland to British Columbia and south to West Virginia, Ohio, Colorado, Idaho and Oregon.

Plants Attacked

The larvae have been recovered from most birch species but European white birch (Betula pendula), water birch (B. occidentalis), paper or canoe birch (B. papyrifera), and yellow birch (B. alleghaniensis) seem to be the most preferred hosts.

Damage

 

Initial damage is usually discovered when the top part of a birch tree suddenly wilts and dies. This happens when a larva girdles one of the upper branches. Careful examination of branches and the trunk usually reveals raised ridges or bumps, commonly referred to as "gouting" of the branches. These are ridges formed when a larval tunnel is closed in by callous tissue of the tree.
Often, D-shaped holes are found in the bark and these may be stained with rust colored sap. These holes are emergence holes made by adult beetles.
Heavy attacks and continued reinfestation results in most of the branches dying from the top down. Eventually the trunk is girdled and the entire tree dies.

Description and Life Cycle

Adult bronze birch borers are rarely observed because of their secretive behavior and rapid flight ability. The adults are slender, dark olive-bronze in color with a bright green iridescence underneath the wing covers. Males are usually about 3/8-inch long, while females may reach 1/2-inch in length. Most adults have a short white colored dash on the sides of the wing covers.
The larva is atypical of most flat-headed borers in having the segment behind the head only slightly wider than the body. The slender, cream-colored larvae have two short spines (urogomphi) at the tip of the abdomen. Newly hatched larvae are about 1/16-inch long while mature larvae may be 3/4 to 1 1/4-inch long and 3/32-inch wide.
Adults generally emerge from mid-May to mid-June in southern Ohio. In northern Ohio, adults may emerge into late June. Emerging adults leave characteristic D-shaped holes in the bark. The adults feed on leaf margins for several days before eggs are laid. Mating and egg laying activity is usually located on the sunny side of trees. Mated females seek out crevices in the bark, especially around branch scars. Occasionally eggs are placed under loose flakes of outer bark or around wounded areas. The oval eggs are creamy white when new but turn yellowish with time. The hatching larvae burrow through the attached egg shell directly into the bark within 10 to 14 days. The larvae generally bore in the cambium area but occasionally move into sapwood. The larvae usually feed laterally around the branch and tunnel in a zig-zag manner. Most larvae mature by late fall and form elongate pupation cells just beneath the bark. Farther north, many larvae overwinter and take a second year before maturing. Pre-pupae rest over winter in the pupal cell in a doubled-up position. Pupation occurs in late April into May

Control Hints

As with most wood boring insects, the bronze birch borer is extremely difficult to control, especially if an infestation is established. This pest seems to prefer birches located in unsuitable habitats. Birches generally grow in shady, cool and moist wooded areas. Thus, when birches are planted as an accent plant in sunny, dry urban lawns, they are rapidly attacked.
Strategy 1: Provide Proper Habitat for Birch Growth - If a birch is deemed necessary for urban landscape planting, select shaded and semi-moist areas. Use the north and east sides of buildings. Proper fertilization and control of aphids and leafminers will help keep the birch vigorous and better able to withstand borers.
Strategy 2: Use Birches Less Susceptible to Borers - Though they do not have pure white bark, river birch (B. nigra) is quite resistant to attack and gray birch (B. populifolia) is moderately resistant. However, gray birch is very susceptible to leaf miners and river birch is attacked by leaf aphids. Probably the best species is the Monarch birch (B. maximowicziana) which has white bark on older trees and is only moderately susceptible to leafminers and aphids.
Strategy 3: Preventive or Protectant Insecticide Applications by Calendar Dates - Susceptible birches are rapidly attacked in sunny areas and generally require regular annual protectant insecticide applications. Protectant surface sprays are applied to the tree bark so that residual insecticide is present to kill larvae hatching from eggs. This must be done before eggs are laid and reapplications are needed if adults lay eggs over extended periods. A thorough drenching of the larger branches (1 1/2-inch diameter or larger) and trunk is needed to insure the formation of the insecticide barrier under loose bark and inside bark cavities - areas where eggs are usually attached. Systemic insecticides - sprayed, soil drenched, or injected - are applied to kill feeding adults and young larvae entering the cambium area. In Ohio, protectant sprays should be applied by early June and possibly again in early July. See Bulletin 504 for currently registered insecticides.
Strategy 4: Preventive Applications Timed by Degree-Days - An adult emergence model for bronze birch borers has been developed using a 10_C base and an April 1 start date. The model gives the following predictions:

% Emergence	Degree-Days @10 degrees C	30-year average date for Columbus, OH
10	233	May 27
30	264	May 30
50	287	June 2
70	312	June 5
90	353	June 9

Strategy 5: Systemic Insecticide Application to Control Active Borers - This technique may reduce damage but often considerable damage has already occurred. True phloem/xylem flowable systemics may be applied - sprayed, soil drenched, or injected - to kill actively feeding larvae. This is generally only effective from late June to mid-September. Spring and late fall applications are not effective because the larvae are usually not feeding and have entered their pupal chambers. See Bulletin 504 for currently registered insecticides.

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NOTE: Disclaimer - This publication may contain pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due to constantly changing labels and product registrations, some of the recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author and Ohio State University Extension assume no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.

This article available through the Ohio State University Extension Services.

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